Category Archives: Sewing

Schoolhouse Tunic Love

Fast.

Easy.

Flattering/Cute.

Sleeves that are set in FLAT.

I mean, what’s not to love.

This baby went together in 2 hours and that was working in between.  It will always have a tee underneath but the neck slit could come up about 4 inches.

Only mod was to use only one center pleat, the corduroy bugged me to have all of the pleats called for. In a lighter weight, this one will be stitched as directed. Can’t wait to wear it with a pair of skinny(ish) black jeans and a black t or turtle. Will look great with jeans too and a big chunky necklace.

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Dear Bernina, I Love You!

My Bernina needs a tune up yet still she plugs on.  Maybe the week after next when I’ll be away from sewing for a week. Time for her to go to the Spa!

I’m sewing…. and for MYSELF! {insert squeal here}.  It’s no secret that I HATE HATE HATE the fabric selection locally, big box bland and yuk. I do LOVE every piece of fabric I purchased from Fashion Fabrics! I had an enormous amount of fear purchasing fabric online totally blind— no swatches, nothing! I’d been to the warehouse way back a bazillion years ago when they had a store front, you can’t do that anymore.  Of course I had my eye on some fabric from Marci Tilton, and still do— don’t get me wrong. But I needed basics, I needed ‘em NOW and I had a limited budget. So I shopped online carefully and when it came time to purchase I was more than a little apprehensive.  Turns out no need to be! The quality was VERY good, I was impressed.

I threw everything into the washing machine (even those knits labeled dry clean) and into the dryer. Excellent. Folded, they’re now waiting to be cut. They will never see the inside of the dryer again. Ever.

All for tops to wear with jeans, my skinny black pants with the ankle zip and my brown and black python leggings. (yes, really).

First up was my only frustration, a teal piece of lightweight, smooshy knit. I don’t know how they cut this but two people couldn’t make it like flat to cut it.  ARGH.  I moved on to a floaty drapey piece of chocolate brown knit, very lightweight as well. Cut like a dream, sewed like a double dream!  Pattern is Vogue #1261, alice + olivia. Do NOT like the raw edges so I didn’t use that technique except at the bottom. I used my rotary cutter to get the smoothest line possible and used a double needle threaded with black to stitch a line 1/2″ from the bottom edge. Sleeves were finished as I like to shove my sleeves up 3/4 length and I knew a raw edge would only give me problems. While I like the wider scoop neck, for following versions (in the teal if I can get it to behave and in a brushed gray knit) I will likely alter the neckline a bit closer.  LOVE the top, very floaty, simple, fresh……. a great pattern and fast to make, a definite plus.I need to add the finish to the neckline and it will be all set.

On the machine now is the coolest Japanese soft babywale corduroy in a great pattern. I’m making The Schoolhouse Tunic from Sew Liberated. I’ve seen it made in a couple different fabrications and it always looks really nice, clean and polished.

Next planned is the black on black python print knit (a heavier knit with less stretch) and to be honest I can’t decide if I want to make a tunic or the French Housewife Dress (Vogue 8813) from Marci Tilton. I suspect by the time I get to this (hopefully super soon) it will tell me what it wants to be. This is one AWESOME piece of fabric, the photo just doesn’t do it justice. V 8813 might just be made from a purple knit, who knows?

Lastly is a length of a smoky navy blue crushed velvet knit. Love this piece too!  I want to make McCalls 6607, in view C, a sleeveless, drapey cowl neck tunic (not the high-low version). I have a couple really great belts that will look wonderful.

For those of you in the sewing mood…… rush on over to McCalls website….. (also the home of Butterick and Vogue) where they are having a not to be missed sale. I never EVER purchase patterns at the store but always buy them when McCalls has them on sale. Right now they are lowest price ever, $2.99 for McCalls and $2.88 (yes you read that right) for a Vogue pattern. Stock up. Go crazy. I bought 4 Vogue patterns and 1 McCalls for less than I’d pay for a pattern locally.

Back to my regularly scheduled sewing. I’m playing games with myself…….. do a task from the list labeled WORK…… and you get to sew for a half hour. Bits and pieces on we go!

 

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One we go at Casita Contessa

Very true, “and on we go”. Normally January is slower, more relaxed. Work has slowed down to an off season pace and things are easier to grasp. This January has proven to be nothing like that. We’re building a ‘sister company’ which has a lot to do with it. Running one company is daunting but two? (actually three but who’s counting?)  Well, it’s crazy and I have had to lay down some new rules for living.

  • Work as much as possible from home in pajamas
  • Make new pajamas
  • Schedule and follow with vigilance time to play in the creative zone
  • Play for 30 minutes longer than originally scheduled
  • Be easy on yourself, you can’t do it all!
  • Make notes and notes on top of notes and organize by file folder
  • perhaps color code the folders?
  • Eat well
  • get some exercise maybe?

The new jammie bottoms are above. A pair in pink and orange with fun polka dot cuffs, and some pink skulls. Kind of fun. Remind me to pick up some t shirts to wear on top that don’t have holes or all stretched out.

Some women plan their work wardrobes with Elle or Vogue or Marie Claire. I plan my work wardrobe with fun flannel and cheapie t shirts! I did actually leave the house last night shockingly enough! Dinner OUT, wearing real clothes and eating food that didn’t come from a container. It was lovely to be honest! I will admit to some difficulty pulling together an OUTFIT, I think it’s been too long! :)

The play time has yielded some knitting! My cardigan in progress, Lorna Suzanne, is taking a brief rest while I cast on for the sleeves. Then they’ll both join back up and get finished all as one sweater body. Knitting sleeves is kind of boring, super thankless. I hate hate hate magic loop or I’d do them both at once. I would have knit the sleeves first but I was so anxious to see the lace border on the sides of the sweater I just couldn’t!

I’m also reading a lot (can you say insomnia?). I just finished 11/22/63 by Stephen King which was amazing, and I’ve begun “The Next Always” from Nora Roberts. My more serious reading has gone by the wayside in lieu of lighter fare.

What are you doing to keep on track?

 

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Make Your Perfect Dressform

FINALLY! The .pdf instructions for creating YOUR PERFECT DRESSFORM are ready to go!

It is no secret, I’m crazy for my dressform! And I believe that everybody needs one! Whether you are a sewist, a knitter, a crocheter—- or just want a beautiful display mannequin—– and anyone can make one using readily available supplies. Purchased on sale the base dressform can be transformed by you (or a creative friend) in no time at all.

My dressform is wearing Laura Nelkin’s “Rippled”

She’s modeling “Skywalker” (again Nelkin Designs) here

Whether you make one with a skin tight cover or a slightly looser “dress style” like mine, you will use your dressform all the time! An off the rack form will never be perfectly you—– and a duct tape dressform definitely has it’s limitations! A perfect dressform can check patterns, make alterations or just look great wearing something special.

The form is EXACTLY your body and easily changeable if your weight fluctuates a bit. The instructions are available in my Etsy shop now!

Just for Knitting Contessa readers, use the coupon code HOLIDAYS2011 at checkout for a 10% discount! Yay! We love discounts! The price is a super reasonable $5.49 before discount and the .pdf will be delivered to your email address in within 24-48 hours.

Now go on—– make your perfect dressform! You’ll LOVE it!

Final p.s.- Knitting Contrissmas starts TOMORROW! I’m so excited I can’t wait!!!

 

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Let Me Sew, Let Me Sew, Let Me SEW!

You know your tuckus is in trouble when you have to take a couple days off work, get into your jammies and understand that makeup will not be a happening thing—- for a project.

My project?

Butterick 4919

Occasion: Gala this weekend

Version: Long baby, long

Fabric: Red taffeta

Details: invisible zipper, horsehair braid hem, filmy matching fabric for a ‘wrap’

Time: Probably not enough

****

My Custom Dressform is at the ready (and fabulous!) and I’ll have the how to’s for yours by Thanksgiving. I promise.

 

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Apron Fit For a Contessa

Fit for a Contessa indeed!  I am crazypants about this apron it is spectacular and beyond. The simplicity of muslin but the best quality muslin. The simplicity of style but embellished completely. Bleachable if marinara goes astray, adaptable for size or garments with super long ties in the back.

Simple shapes taken all the way there and then some.

Remember the ruffle tutorial? Well, those ruffles ended up here on the apron. Smaller rows of ruffles set it apart as well as the fuller gather.

The apron bib is higher than some and a bit wider, there is complete adjustability for fit and coverage and the long neck ties can take the bib higher or lower on a whim.

The back is simple yet tailored, clean and crisp topstitching makes it shine. (‘cuse the tushie on the bare nekkid dressform!!!) We’ll rectify that soon enough.

And just to gild the lily a little bit I added a small raw edge muslin rosette on a removable pin for a teensy sass.  Gotta’ be about the sass, right?

Now the only thing left to do is decide what to cook in the new apron? Something really fabulous to be sure!

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You Know What This Means……right?

The dress form out of the box and un-sullied.

We shall sully when I get back from The Creative Connection Event—

There will be Big Fun.

and a fabulous Tutorial!

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Ruffle Question

I got some great questions about the post dealing with making ruffles yesterday. Thanks!  One was a question that asked “what if the ruffle is too tightly gathered for the area I’m pinning it?”   The answer is easy and slightly less so. The weight of your fabric and how tightly it is woven will have a lot to do with how fully your fabric strip is gathered. Please experiment first with a similar strip of fabric and try different things.

The best thing to do is to leave a very long tail on your thread when you cut it from the maching after sewing the ruffle strip. Then, if the ruffle is too tight, as you pin it along your item you can easily “un-ruffle” it as you go along. Nice and easy does it, and it is simple as pie.

Question 2 was how do I attach my ruffle. In the photo above, it is completely okay for the top edge of the ruffle to be raw. I ruffled it raw and pinned it onto the base raw. Then I use normal pressure on the foot, a normal stitch length and stitch over the top of the stitching line made when the ruffle was born. I’ll go over the top of the raw edge with a simple machine overcast stitch when I’m done. If you have a double ruffle or turned down edge you stitch it onto your base in exactly the same way, the difference is that the top edge of your ruffle has been finished in some way. If you have a serger you can serge the top edge before ruffling allowing maximum fullness as well as a finished ruffle (assuming the bottom edge was narrow hemmed.) You’ll see a line of air eraseable marker on the photo above. I measured the lines I wanted my ruffles to be sewn on and I butted the ruffles up to this line.

Remember, if you have a raw edge you can always sew the ruffle on ‘upside down’, and when you give the item a shake the ruffle will fall down over the raw edge. It’s all up to YOU!

Do you have more than one ruffle? If you start from the bottom it is easier than if you start from the top!

Ruffle on!

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Sewing a Ruffle- Without a Ruffler Attachment

Sewing a ruffle can be frustrating, especially when working on a long strip of fabric. Traditionally you run a line of stitching on the edge to be gathered using a long stitch length, then you have to pull that thread up and get it all even and not break the thread. The following method works for ME—– and might not work for you, or need a tweak or two along the way, but it is certainly worth the effort to put this into your bag of tricks.

  • The following works on 100% cotton fabric, pre-washed to remove all sizing. My fabric is 100% cotton Kona muslin with a 200 thread count.
  • Thread is 100% polyester, mine is Coats and Clark

  • the sewing machine is set up with normal upper tension, longest stitch length, slightly more than 1/4″ from the edge

  • I sew with a Bernina 180, you can see the stitching position set “two clicks” from center
  • LOWER tension: I bypassed the slot that feeds/tensions the bobbin thread entirely. I use a “pigtail” case (sometimes known as an embroidery bobbin case) and after bypassing the slot I ran the thread through the “pigtail” to guide. I have used a regular bobbin case with the same technique and the result is a slightly tighter gather in the ruffle.
  • Place the fabric to be ruffled under the pressure foot set at normal pressure and sew with gentle tension on the strip

  • The photo above shows the ruffled fabric straight out of the machine!

The ruffle pinned right onto the anchor fabric—- no pulling needed! (Now if you need a super tight ruffle, you might need to pull that thread a bit but it is much easier!)

  • The technique applies when ruffling a single layer or a double layer (shown above). A double layer will be slightly less gathered because of the second layer of fabric coming through the machine.
  • Results will vary depending on the weight and fiber content of the fabric, experiment first!

I hope you’re inspired to ruffle something— at least get out your machine and putter ar0und!

Don’t forget to re-thread your bobbin case before you sew a regular seam or you’ll be unhappily surprised!

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In Praise of Good Sewing Thread

I was reminded of the wonders (dare I say miracles) of good sewing thread Monday. Sewing was at its simplest, soothing, calming—- all because of thread. The fabric was muslin, my favorite muslin that I use almost exclusively, excellent Kona muslin all smooth and finely woven. Delicious really. A fresh needle in the machine (which quite frankly after looking at the photo could use a good cleaning!) and miles of straight stitching for narrow hems— good thread makes the difference. Like many sewists I have a drawer-ful of thread. Some way too old, some fresh, some from the bargain bin, some fine quality— some I don’t even recall where they came from! The thread I used for the muslin Zen was Coats & Clark, a fresh matching spool. I have nothing but good things to say about it, and it had been a long time since I’d sewn with it, believe it or not!  My seams are sturdy, I flew along the seams at lightning speed with nary a break or bobble, it even seemed to make the tension wonderful!

I’ll be going through that drawer of thread soon and tossing out the old maids—– the less than quality thread. Once and for all! I’ll replace my thread with nice fresh spools of quality thread. Surely my sewing will be all the happier for it.

The muslin project? Something delicious—- I’ll be sharing along with a technique for one step ruffling on long strips of fabric without a ruffler attachment.

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